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Sea and Sea in Sea Insurance
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SEA & SEA offers a wide array of underwater cameras and equipment to match the interests and ambitions of all underwater photographers, including,

MX-10 and Motor Marine II-EX AMPHIBIOUS CAMERAS


Housings for Nikon N-90, N-60, F5 and Canon Rebel Cameras, and Various Cameras.

Accessories for Nikonos Cameras: 20mm, 16mm, and 15mm Lenses, 1:2 & 1:3 extension tubes


The camera techs at Sub Aquatic have been repairing cameras for over a decade and are prize-winning amateur underwater photographers. Therefore we understand the value photographers place on their images and the importance of maintaining and servicing the equipment needed to capture those images. Thatís why weíre passing on these tips to help keep your Sea & Sea equipment working and, more important, keep you capturing unique underwater images.

We recommend The New Guide to Sea & Sea by Joe Liburdi and Cara Sherman and suggest you read all Sea & Sea instruction manuals cover to cover. If you have questions, never hesitate to call any authorized service center. The more you know, the better you shoot.

EQUIPMENT FUNCTIONS

Here are ways to check several of the mechanical and electrical functions on cameras and strobes.

  1. Testing TTL for Motor Marine II-EX (Check before loading.)
  1. Install batteries, turn strobe to TTL, and set aperture to 5.6 or 3.5
  2. Point camera and strobe(s) at a nearby reflective surface. Fire the strobe at least twice. A green light on the rear of the strobe should illuminate, indicating partial power firing.
  3. Block off camera lens and fire. The strobe should put out perceptibly more light without the green light illuminating.
  4. Middle green LED TTL confirmation light inside the camera viewfinder should mimic strobe indications.
  1. Testing Auto Function for MX-10 (The YS-40 is an Auto strobe and measures light through a sensor, not through the camera.)
  1. Fire at f/3.5 at a nearby reflective surface. Note degree of light output.
  2. Fire again with finger covering sensor. You should see a substantial increase in light output.
  1. Film Loading
  1. Choose ASA/ISO 100 or 400 for the MX-1.
  2. Place film in camera, making certain the rewind "teeth" fit totally into the film canister.
  3. Pull film "tongue" across the film guide to take-up spool mark.
  4. Gently place finger on top of the film on top of the take-up spool.
  5. Fire shutter once or twice until the film encircles the take-up spool, then close the door.

 

D. Accessories

      16mm and 20mm wide angle lenses

      Macro

      Diopters and Nikonos lenses

      Built-in close-up lens

O-RINGS

Marine cameras suffer far greater indignities than land cameras. Extremes of heat and cold water pressure, and saltwater dictate the need for rugged construction. The most crucial element in protecting marine cameras is O-rings. O-rings come in different forms and have different maintenance demands.

  1. User O-rings are those serviced by the photographer.
    1. Sea & Sea black O-rings use regular silicone grease in a Sea & Sea white-capped tube. Clean by wiping off with a lint-free towel, then regreasing with silicone grease.
    2. New blue O-rings require grease in a Sea & Sea blue-capped tube.
    1. Wipe O-ring clean, grease, remove the grease and with it, the accumulated particles; regrease.
    2. Wipe O-ring clean, dip in clean water, stretch (not too much) and "thrum" like a guitar string, flicking off particle carrying water drops, then regrease (not too much).
  1. Factory O-rings are interior O-rings and must be serviced only by trained technicians.

MAINTENANCE

User error or inattention causes the majority of camera floods. Follow these procedures:

  1. Pre-dive
    1. Inspect O-rings for cuts or dents.
    2. Clean and lube O-rings and inspect for lint or stray hairs.
    3. Inspect channels before mounting O-rings.
    4. Inspect assemblies for frozen parts, like shutter release or aperture knob.
    5. Clean optics and practice installation of accessory (wide-angle and macro) optics.
    6. Test and fire internal and external strobes.
    7. Load film.
    8. Inspect, then close all user O-ring areas.
    9. Install arms and trays.
  1. During the Dive
    1. To mount an accessory lens, align the yellow dot on the lens with the white mark on the camera body, and then turn the lens clockwise until it clicks in place.
    2. On the Motor Marine II-EX and Mx-10, flood the area between the camera and accessory lens and check for trapped bubbles or sand.
    3. Periodically check the accessory lens position.
    4. Check viewfinder for LED lights.
    5. Check strobe position.
    6. Avoid "levering" macro framers.
    7. Watch for suspicious bubbles.

 

  1. Post Dive
    1. Be leery of fin and swim ladder "bumps". This is the usual way of losing accessory optics.
    2. Stay with camera, or hand to reliable dive partner, while reboarding boat.
    3. Never allow salt water to dry on camera or lens; this leads to salt-packed O-rings. Keep wet until you get to fresh water.
    4. Remove dirt, mud, sand, and other debris from the surface of equipment.
    5. Rinse and flush. Hand flushing for one minute in fresh water equals a 24-hour soak.
    6. Never leave gear alone in a rinse bucket; other divers and ship movement can easily damage it.
    7. Never use alcohol, benzene or thinners to clean camera body; such solvents can damage the plastic case.
    8. Dry:
        1. Dry thoroughly with a clean, dry, soft cloth.
        2. Pat dry optics; evaporated water can discolor the lens coatings.
        3. Do not use a compressed air line for drying unless it is below 70 psi or you risk blowing water past your O-rings, as well as into any open camera equipment nearby.
    1. Rewind film. This is automatic on the MX-10 at the end of the roll, but must be lever activated on the MMII.
    2. Dry yourself, your hair, and remove torso gear; these can drip water into cameras.
    3. Open camera downwards so water from user O-rings doesnít fall into camera. (This single action can save your camera from hundreds of dollars worth of damage.)
    4. Be ready to catch falling film.
    5. Clean and inspect channel O-rings. (This other single action can save your camera from hundreds of dollars worth of damage.)
    6. Just changing film? Pull, clean, relube, inspect, O-ring and channel, and replace back door O-ring. Separate camera from tray and arm, as these trap water.
    7. End of dive day?
        1. Remove all user O-rings. Clean, inspect, grease, inspect, reinstall.
        2. Check battery power.
        3. Gently polish optics clean.
        4. Install fresh film and, if necessary, batteries.
        5. Reassemble camera in a relaxed atmosphere, checking each O-ring for debris.
  1. Annual Maintenance. Performed by techs at factory or authorized service center. Sea & Sea recommends annual inspection and testing with a full service every two to three years. (There are 16 O-rings in a MMII, less in the MX-10 that needs to be inspected or replaced.)
  2. Storage

      Never allow water to dry on the camera. Never expose the camera to direct sunlight or excessive heat because it can damage the internal electronic mechanism. Sea &Sea cameras should remain within a temperature range of 40° C/104° F and -5° C/23° F.

      Short term (for less than two weeks). User O-rings and batteries can be left in the camera.

      Long term (for more than two weeks). Remove batteries, and user O-rings. Place in plastic bag and rubber band the to the camera body. This is also the procedure for airline travel.

       

FLOODS

Even with the best maintenance, a flood can sometimes occur, but they are not always disastrous.

  1. In-water Flood, indicated by small amount water discovered when camera is opened.
    1. Turn all controls to "OFF" to cut off destructive electric current.
    2. Turn Nikonos V to "M".
    3. Return to the surface at a safe pace.
  1. Minor Flood, indicated by small amount of water discovered when camera is opened.
    1. Determine if water penetrated from door, diver, or vacuum created by opening the camera, or a correctable problem, like hair or sand on the back door O-ring. If so, correct problem and Q-tip off moisture and let dry.
    2. If the leak isnít correctable, as from a damaged part, dry, set aside and donít use.
  1. Partial Flood, when water has partially invaded the inner electronic workings of the camera.
    1. Remove batteries and film and, if wet, discard.
    2. If flood is in only one portion, soak only that area in fresh water.
    3. Place 18 inches away from blow drier on low heat and dry for two to three hours. (If camera becomes too hot to touch, blow drier is too close.) Or place in an engine room for a day or two.
    4. If camera still works and cause of flood has been rectified; you can continue shooting but send to technician as soon as possible.
  1. Biblical Flood, when a goldfish comes swimming out.

    Follow steps C1 through 3 above, and then place in a plastic bag and ship to a technician ASAP.

  2. Flood of Nikonos-adaptable lenses, where a quantity of water intrudes past the front or rear lens.
    1. Flush thoroughly with fresh water.
    2. Do not allow drying. Put in plastic bag and send to a tech.

With proper care, maintenance, and pure heart, your Sea & Sea equipment will bring you years of exciting underwater photography.

Serving Underwater Photographers Worldwide
22740 Portola Drive Salinas, CA 93908 USA (831) 484-6230